There are a lot of reasons why someone might want to check out a guide like T Dub Sanders'. One might be interested in the underside of the game testing field. Others might just want to know what they can gain from a guide that is written to help people understand their role in the gaming industry. Others still are just pining for that ultimate career working alongside game developers and designers.

Whatever the reason, T Dub Sanders has put together one of the biggest and best game testing guides on the market – one that shows the underpinnings of the career in their raw, real format. There are no false promises of automatic testing or sitting at home and playing the newest games for hundreds of dollars a day.

That stuff is all pretty much a pipe dream and most people know it – yet many guide writers try to tell everyone that they can become the biggest and best new game testers in a field that doesn't really exist every day and too many fall for it. On the other hand, what T Dub has put together is a much more realistic, much more comprehensive look at what game testing is really about – the hard work and dedication that goes into becoming someone in charge of all that code each day.

By showing what it really takes to be a game tester, T Dub opens up an actual, realistic path to getting into the industry. He showcases skills needed to get started as a tester, the classes or college majors that people better be willing to invest in if they want to be a professional in this field and much more to help them figure out not only if the career path is right for them but if they are going to be cut out for it. That means a great deal for someone who may or may not know exactly what a game tester does and how it operates.

For anyone that is thinking about taking the path toward becoming a game tester, one of the first things that needs to be done is to learn more about what the career entails. Those people should pick up T Dub's newest guide and get a real insider's look at the job and how it really works. If you're serious about doing what T Dub shows you, you'll be on the fast track toward game testing in no time flat.

Sunday, July 28, 2013

How to Caulk a Bathtub

How to Caulk a Bathtub: 10 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow/**/var WH = WH || {};WH.lang = WH.lang || {};button_swap = button_unswap = function(){};WH.exitTimerStartTime = (new Date()).getTime();WH.mergeLang = function(A){for(i in A){v=A[i];if(typeof v==='string'){WH.lang[i]=v;}}}; wikiHow - How to do anything Sign Up or Log In or Log In via

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HomeArticlesCommunityMy Profile WH.translationData = {'es': {'msg':"\u00bfTe gustar\u00eda saber Como enmasillar una tina? \u00a1Lee acerca de eso en espa\u00f1ol!"}};WH.mergeLang({'navlist_collapse': '- collapse','navlist_expand': '+ expand'});EditHome » Categories » Home and Garden » Home Improvements and Repairs » Painting and Other FinishesHow to Caulk a BathtubEdited by Zack, Ben Rubenstein, Bill Russo, James Brown and 20 others

Pin ItArticle EditDiscussWater will penetrate your bathroom walls and cause expensive damage to your valuable home unless you take precautions with your bathtub.

Edit Steps1Examine the joint between the bathtub and the wall. Clean all old caulk, mildew and soap scum from the edge of bathtub. Be careful not to scratch surface of tub. Wipe with denatured alcohol to clean and remove any moisture from each seam. Rubbing alcohol contains oil that leaves residue (to keep from drying out your skin) and should not be used for cleaning.

2Use caulk approved for bathroom surfaces. There are choices in color and price. It seems more silicone costs more. Silicone caulk for kitchen and bath has a mildew preventer built in it.

3Apply masking tape to both sides of where you want your new caulk bead, with the edges of the tape lining up to exactly where you want the bead of caulk to stop. This is a technique that professionals use to ensure a perfectly even-looking bead with no mess. There should be about an eighth of an inch between the two pieces of tape.

4Load caulk tube in caulk gun. Using a sharp knife, cut the application tip on score mark. Opening should not be so big that a bead cannot be formed. Opening should not be so small that caulk tube seems highly pressurized. Most tubes have a thin barrier inside the tube to prevent the caulk from curing. Pierce the barrier by inserting a wire, nail or pointed object inside tip.

5Hold caulk gun over trash and depress trigger to move caulk forward filling the tip. Caulk should flow out, not squirt or drip. Release trigger lock to relieve the light pressure inside tube.

6Point tip in position at seam. Tip should be slightly above surface, nearly touching. As you begin to press trigger, watch flow of caulk. With one steady motion, move caulk gun straight along seam, creating a uniform bead. Before flow stops, quickly release trigger and begin to press again as you continue to create a uniform bead the entire length of seam. Do not stop until you reach corner.

7Repeat for each seam, usually three walls.

8When you stop, remember to release the trigger lock to relieve pressure inside tube or caulk will continue to flow out.

9Smooth the caulk out between the pieces of masking tape, pressing it into the corner with your finger as you go along, and removing excess caulk. Keep a few paper towels at hand to wipe your finger off if you need to.

10Remove the masking tape before the caulk starts to skin over. The bead should look neat and even, but you may need to clean it up slightly with your finger again for a perfect finish. Caulk must cure for 24/36 hours before exposing to water and moisture.


Edit Video



Seal bathroom with silicone in easy way. Watch how easy it is to do this. Anyone can do this and do it very good.

Edit TipsFill the tub three quarters of the way full of water to allow the tub to sag while the silicone dries for 24 hours. Otherwise the tub will sag when you get in and pull on the seam causing possible long-term cracking and breaking.Have a wide-mouthed garbage receptacle nearby, to take the waste (like masking tape) that has silicone on it, so you don't get silicone everywhere.To fully stop flow out of the caulk gun, release the plunger catch each time you put the gun down.Clean up and smoothing is easily accomplished with paper towels and "Formula 409" or other similar household cleaner.After removing the tape, smooth the edges that were next to the tape, ensuring that they are feathered to the surface. Otherwise, the edge will gather dirt.Be sure to remove all traces of caulk & mildew before applying new caulk- -yes even that residue that seems like it will not come off.If you do not use the entire tube of caulk, you may plug the tip with an object such as a small wooden rod or nail and cover with plastic or tape. Caulk will keep for a short time.When smoothing the caulk, start in a corner and go 1/2 to 3/4 across. Then start in the opposite corner and meet in the middle. When meeting the already smoothed section, lightly lift your smoothing device so there isn't a hump.Bead must fill seam between wall and bathtub. Bead must contact wall and tub uniformly along entire length or leaks will occur.To remove silicone from hands just rub them with a plastic bag. It makes cleanup instant and lets you use your fingers to smooth and finish caulking without worrying about stickiness.Silicone caulk is very very sticky and will not come off your fingers easily. Therefore, wear latex gloves when applying silicone caulkLay a rag out to put the caulk gun down on, so that any drips are caught.Use a small paper cup filled halfway with lukewarm water, add 2 to 3 drops dishwashing soap and stir gently with your finger to dissolve. You don't want suds. Using this to wet your finger will make cleanup easier and the silicone will not want to stick to your finger.You can smooth out the caulk with a wet finger, plastic spoon or rounded ice cube.A sharpened flathead screwdriver works quite well for removing old caulking (be sure not to damage underlying surfaces).Persistent mildew stains can be removed in advance by soaking paper towels with water-diluted bleach, and laying the soaked paper over the problem areas. Leave the bleached towels in place until the stains have disappeared. After removing the paper, the area should be given ample time to dry before you begin re-caulking. The operation can be done with the old caulk still in place, so it can be done days ahead of time.The process is very similar to decorating a cake.A little off topic, but when you have a tiled inside corner always use caulk instead of grout. Grout will crack out and will leak in the corners, whereas caulk stays flexible when it is cured. If you have large, sanded grout joints, you can usually find colored, sanded caulk in the same custom colors as the grout, although this isn't always the best choice for tub surrounds and showers. For this application make sure you use caulk with some amount of silicone in it, or pure silicone.Do one wall at a time because silicone films over rather quickly.To help prevent having the tape remain in place too long, leaving undesirable seams in the silicone, cut the tape into sections - like one section per wall - with a utility knife. That way, you can easily caulk one section and remove its tape for feathering, without disturbing the tape of the next section. Be careful to avoid scoring the tub with that knife, though.

Edit WarningsDo not use bathtub until caulk cures. See tube for specific instructions.


Edit Related wikiHowsHow to Remove Mold from CaulkHow to Caulk a DrainHow to Caulk a Shower DrainHow to Remove Old CaulkingHow to Replace a BathtubHow to Remove Silicone Caulk from HandsHow to Clean the TubHow to Maintain Your Spa or Hot TubHow to Unclog a Bathroom Sink That Drains SlowlyHow to Replace a Kitchen or Bathroom Faucet

Edit Sources and Citationshttp://idodiy.co.uk/28/11/2011/how-to-seal-around-a-bath/Article Info

Categories: Painting and Other Finishes

Recent edits by: Maluniu, BR, Amberlyn

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