Metal Gear Solid V: The Phantom Pain’s theme song vocalist, Donna Burke, will feature on a forthcoming episode of Kojima Productions’ Alert Podcast on July 18, the company has confirmed.
The episode will take place at 5.30 p.m. PST and will give fans the opportunity to submit questions for a Q&A segment.
Burke has appeared in a number of video game soundtracks over the years, and in addition to providing the vocal for The Phantom Pain’s ‘Sins of the Father’ theme also appeared on the Metal Gear Solid: Peace Walker track ‘Heavens Divide.’
Metal Gear Solid V takes place in the 1980s and sees the legendary Big Boss – now known as Punished Snake – awakening from a nine-year coma and forming the mercenary group Diamond Dogs. Snake’s new mission sees him infiltrating Afghanistan in order to track down those responsible for the destruction of Militaries Sans Frontieres (MSF).
The stealth-action title will be released for PlayStation 4, PlayStation 3, Xbox One and Xbox 360. A release date has yet to be announced.
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Before You get stuck into the patch notes, there are a few other things you ought to know. First up, there are a couple of events taking place over the next weeks that will be quite lucrative for New Eden's mercs. From a recent blog:Triple SP EventStarting on July 4 and ending on July 10, we will be hosting a Triple Skill Point Event for all players who log in to play. During the event period your skill point cap will be tripled and your skill booster bonuses are stacked with the triple skill point reward. Don’t miss out on this great opportunity to earn extra skill points and get that level 5 skill that you’ve been training for. Here's some details on the Triple SP event that you will want to know:The weekly SP cap will reset on Wednesday, July 3rd as usual after DT. If you hit your weekly in the first day then you will still be eligible for the extended SP cap for the event on Thursday.The passive SP gain and caps are not part of the triple SP event, so they will work normally.Your extra SP earned from skill boosters do ... (continued on next page) 
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A fireworks show involves many, many fireworks, so be ready to experiment, preferably with a digital camera so you get instant feedback. Since fireworks produce basically monochromatic light (from chemicals), their colors will be distinct at a variety of apertures and ISO settings. A long exposure is required to let a few fireworks trace out their patterns. Different aperture and ISO settings will affect the brightness of the surroundings – bright surroundings are distracting, but subdued rather than completely black surroundings are much more interesting. Choose the amount of foreground and sides to include with this in mind. (The aperture setting isn't very important for depth of field with far away fireworks, since they'll be essentially at infinity, and any foreground should be dim and indistinct in any event – it mainly matters for overall exposure, and a relatively wide aperture and low ISO will give less "noise" than a small aperture and high ISO.)
2Get a good position! Try to determine approximately where the fireworks will be bursting and get a spot with an unobstructed view of that area. If the fireworks are popular, you'll need to show up early to get a good spot. Figure out the wind direction and get upwind of the fireworks so that your shots aren't obscured by smoke blowing toward you. Find a spot where you can avoid getting a lot of extraneous ambient light in the picture, as this will cause an overexposure.
When scouting out your location, choose some interesting features to serve as the background. This will make your photos more exciting for others to view.
3Set the camera on the tripod. Fireworks generally accompany celebrations, so it's not surprising if your memories of them are a little blurry. Your pictures, however, should be crisp and clear. Photographing fireworks requires long exposure times, so a tripod is your most important ally. No matter how steady your hand is, it's not steady enough.
Don't extend the legs or center column of the tripod. Keep everything close to the ground to keep the camera as steady as possible.
A flashlight can be used to fill in shadows.[3]Ensure that wherever the tripod is set up is safely out of the way of other people tripping over it. If you're in a crowd, ask a friend to act as a shield to ensure other people don't walk into your camera shooting while you're looking upward.4Ensure the camera settings are correct. While some digital cameras have a "fireworks mode", where you don't have to worry about the settings, knowing how to fix the settings to work to the best advantage for taking great shots of fireworks is essential. It's best to set these well ahead of time, as it may be difficult to see your camera controls or your checklist in the dusk or dark. Double checking before you set off the take the photos is a good way to get used to changing the camera settings and knowing the limitations of your camera. The changes that you need to consider making to the settings include:
Set the focus to infinity. You're generally far enough away from fireworks that you can adjust the lens focus to infinity and leave it there. If you want to get a closeup of a small part of the burst, you may need to adjust the focus as you zoom in. If you want to include buildings or people in the background, you may want to bring these into focus. Avoid the use of auto focus if possible; as already noted, most cameras have difficulty adjusting focus in low light conditions.
Use a smaller aperture. Set the aperture in the f5.6 to f16 range. F8 is usually a good bet, but if you're shooting with ISO 200 film you may want to kick it up to f16.
Turn off the flash. The fireworks are bright enough, and your flash wouldn't effectively reach them anyway; however, it will dull the atmosphere of the shot, thereby lessening its impact.
Take off any filters or lens caps before shooting.
If your lens has IS (Canon) or VR (Nikon), turn it off before shooting. If you are shooting with an SLR or DSLR camera, chances are your lens has the IS (image stabilization) or VR (vibration reduction) feature built in. And if you have IS or VR (it is essentially the same thing, but Canon and Nikon just had to label it differently), then chances are you are used to leaving it on close to 100 percent of the time - which is generally a good idea. IS/VR is meant to sense the vibration (the shaking of your hands, mostly) and compensate for it. When it does not sense any, it... creates it. Turn it off in order to get sharper images. (This tip goes not only for shooting fireworks, but is valid any time you shoot off a tripod.)
5Frame the picture before shooting. Look through the viewfinder during the first few bursts and figure out where the action is. Point your camera at that spot and leave it there. You don't want to be looking through the viewfinder while you're trying to shoot, because you'll likely shake the camera or your timing will be off. If you're trying to get closeups, of course, your framing will need to be more exact and you'll probably have to play with it more. Once again, frame carefully to exclude other light sources that might distract from the fireworks or cause your photos to be overexposed.
6Keep the shutter open to capture the entire burst. Despite what it may feel to you, provided the sky is very black, leaving the shutter open won't result in overexposure.[4] Set the exposure to the maximum length. To get the sharpest image it is best that nothing comes in contact with the camera during the exposure. Use the automatic long exposure of 30 seconds or more. If your camera does not have an automatic long exposure the use of a cable release is okay. Use the BULB (B) setting, which will keep the shutter open as long as the button is depressed. A rule of thumb is to open the shutter as soon as you hear or see the rocket shooting into the sky and to leave it open until the burst is dissipating. This will usually take several seconds.
To capture the best effects from bursts, exposure times will usually be about half a second and four seconds but judge it as you see it.[5] For ISO 100, photography expert John Hedgecoe recommends trying 4 seconds at f5.6.[6]
When taking a reading for exposure, don't point the camera at the center of the light source; if you do, the shot risks being underexposed and the trails of light will be faint. Instead, experiment with a range of shutter speeds and if it's possible, bracket the exposure.[7]
To use auto focus in the dark of night, try to first take a picture of lights on the horizon. Then when you set off the next exposure into the pitch black of night the lens will already be set at infinity. Also, try starting the long exposure when there is a large fireworks burst. The auto focus may work on this pattern and therefore ensure that a subsequent burst during the exposure will be in focus too.
7Spice it up. Even good pictures of fireworks can be boring if there's nothing to distinguish them. You can make more interesting photos by including buildings in the background or spectators in the foreground. Choose your shooting location to try to get an unusual and unique perspective on the show if possible. Ensure that the camera is stable on its tripod and that the focal length and frame is right for the height of the fireworks.
For a wide angled shot of fireworks in a setting such as a well lighted cityscape, judge the height of the first few fireworks bursts and use that as a reference for framing the whole scene. Vary the exposure times set on your tripod-locked camera so that it captures both single and multiple fireworks bursts.[8]\ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Beta Game Testers Needed\wikihow\-crop-44-33-33px-Fireextinguisher.png)
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